Restaurante Pia Y Damaso at Greenbelt 5, Subversive Filipino Cuisine

It was one of those days when rain wouldn’t let up despite ardent prayers. I could have chosen to stay at home and enjoy the comfort of my soft bed with a good book and a cup of hot cocoa. But instead, I find myself braving the rain on my way to Restaurante Pia Y Damaso at Greenbelt 5. That day, I chose to know more about what this interesting restaurant with quirky name is all about. 

Inspired by the novel Noli Me Tangere which is penned by the Philippines’ National Hero Jose Rizal, Restaurante Pia Y Damaso may convey controversial ring to its name.  For those who are not familiar with the characters, Padre Damaso is a Spanish friar in the novel who impregnated a woman named Pia Alba.  Interesting, I know.  I wouldn’t go into sheer details of the novel, instead, let me share with you how I find the dishes at Pia Y Damaso as interesting as the novel itself.

With its fairly small, albeit charming space located at the second level of Greenbelt 5, diners will be greeted with a wide array of desserts as they set foot inside the restaurant.  Had I not been informed that our lunch is going to be a feast of Filipino cuisine with a twist, I could have easily mistaken the place as dessert shop.  It’s not that I would mind at all. Since given the fact that it is owned by Chef Bambi Sy Gobio of Kookie and Luscious, one can expect that their line of dessert is their strong suit. But one should not just be contented with that fact until they have tasted other dishes that this restaurant has to offer.

Despite the chattering in our table, my world stood still in silence as I took a bite of the Crispy Adobo Chicken Skin & Tails (Php160).  For a while there was only me, the crackling sound of the skin as I munch on it, and the deep savory flavor that slowly enveloped my palate. I expected it to be ordinary at a glance, but the adobo flavor made the rather run of the mill dish a delight to the palate.  I would have wanted for the taste to linger but the sight of Almond Stuffed Dates Wrapped in Bacon (Php175) signals that it is time to move on.  Interplay of sweet savory taste greeted me as I savor the next dish. With the distinct flavor of the dates, the dish fosters an interesting note to it. It tasted like Christmas, dare I say. 

“It was our version of pork pie.” Says Chef Bambi.  It was an understatement.  If all interpretation of pork pie is as good as their Filo Tarts with Pork Asado and Apple Reslish (Php220), the world could be a better place.  Savory thick disk of pork asado which resembles to that of a meat loaf is covered with the thin filo pastry as fragile as an onion skin.  Bite into it and you’ll enter a world of meaty flavor with interesting texture.  The tart is already good in itself, but the apple relish that adds a hint of sweetness takes it to a whole different level which made the dish all the more appetizing. 

Albondigas (Php175) is a simple meat dish that combines minced beef and pork. Topped with garlic on tomato, they can easily crossed this out of their appetizer list and regard it as main.  While it can be eaten on its own, an accompaniment of garlic rice or even lightly toasted bread could surely go perfectly well with this dish.

After an array of appetizers we were served two equally satisfying salads.  First one to grace our table consists of seared marinated crocodile meat from Davao on a bed of mixed greens, tomato, caramelized pineapple, crisp shallots. Its dressing mango cilantro vinaigrette lends a contrasting tangy flavor to the dish. It was my first time to try crocodile meat and I find its taste resembles to that of chicken while the texture leans on the rather gamey side of the spectrum. Its namesake Elias (Php450) is also one of the characters from the novel.

Mixed Greens with Duck Confit, Red Onion, Fresh Apples, Oranges and Champoy ( Salted Plum) and Prune Vinaigrette (Php350) was the next salad we devoured.  I find this one more to my liking as compared to Elias.  The use of salted plum mixed with the greens and fruits were surprisingly good. Amidst the medley of citrusy and sweet taste, the duck confit lends a savory note that made the dish not just satisfying but filling as well.

While the Creamy Tinapa, Asparagus, & Fish Fillet Pasta (Php300) was the only pasta we got to try. It was good enough not to be showed by variety of dishes we were served.  It carried an ethereal creaminess that further highlights the distinct taste of tinapa but not to the point of overwhelming degree.

Fried Chorizo Cubes, Potatoes, Egg, and Pandesal (Php475) maybe regarded as a breakfast meal, but it’s the kind of meal that you would love to enjoy any time of the day.  It’s a simple dish with an intricate dance of flavor pulling each other. The chorizo in particular lends a distinct touch that made the dish worth having.

I’ve always been big when it comes to Cua Pao, and Pia Y Damaso’s interpretation of it is no exception.  The braised pork belly was unimaginably flavorful not to mention the roasted peanuts and sweet mustard leaf confit add dimension to every bite.  The use of local bread pan de sal does not just add an interesting flair in terms of texture, it also add patriotic charm to it. No doubt that Chef Bambi herself regards Kua Pao Pandesal (Php250) as her favorite.

With the festive spread of dishes on our table, the last thing on my mind was rice.  However, when Lengua Sevillana with Olives & Mushrooms (Php 450) was set before us, I found an excuse to grab a couple of spoonful.  At a glance I was misled into thinking that it was Callos, but braised ox tongue greeted me as I dig into the bowl.  With tomatoes, mushrooms, and green olives luxuriously covered in thick sauce, it is almost a sin to put rice at the farthest corner of your mind.  

Pia Y Damaso’s Camaron Cocido (Php380) is seared prawns and seafood thermidor with scallop, fish, mussels, squid, and potato topped with  gratinated cheese and sourdough crumbs. It reminded me of the Tiger Prawn I had at Don Vito Ristorante in Boracay in terms of serving portion. Impressive on its size and even more so in taste.  

Crisp Pork Knuckle is one Filipino dish worth celebrating for, and I am delighted to find its less oily counterpart with Ode To Heidelberg (Php1500).  It is said to be a tribute to the place where Rizal finished writing the Noli Me Tangere, hence the name. Boiled smoked pork hock is already worth celebrating for but this lavish dish comes with bacon, four kinds of sausages & potatoes, making it all the more filling.

Faux paella negra is what the dish Placido Penitente (Php 400) is all about. Its color gave an illusion that it’s a risotto cooked with squid ink, but according to Chef Bambi, it is black Ifugao rice.  This dish with sticky texture is very interesting in all aspect of it. Not really something that everyone would love but with the cuttle fish and fish roulade gracing it, I must say it’s worth the try.

After the feast of the appetizers and the mains came the feast of the desserts. Like what I have mentioned, it is one of Pia Y Damaso’s strong points. I wasn’t surprised at all that I liked everything that was served to us.   

With its inviting candied orange confit waving on top, Ibarra's Kiss (Php175) is not something one should miss when dining at Pia Y Damaso.  This hazelnut chocolate torten with dark chocolate mousse and caramel cheese is very fitting to its name.

Sisa's Dementia (Php175) is yet another chocolate dessert that is worth remembering for good or for ill.  After all,who would have want to forget such luxurious dessert of truffle cake with white chocolate almond pastille, dark chocolate mousse, and ganache?

Toasted Ensaymada and Tsokolate Eh (Php150) remind me of the one I usually take pleasure eating at Mary Grace Café. The tsokolate eh is made with Belgian chocolate, hence the rich taste.  The Bibingka Waffle (Php150) hit the right note for me.  Made with Malago’s goat cheese, queso de bola, and salted egg, this delightful treat is served with coco jam syrup to boot.

Purple yam fans could find comfort with Pia Y Damaso’s Ube Macapuno Cake Php100 with its endearing taste that is both comforting and familiar.  Macapuno combined with ube is almost always a match made in heaven and Pia Y Damaso delivers well in proving that point. While I love the aforementioned cake, my palate favored Ube Langka Sans Rival more because of its exciting texture and feel t the tongue.  

All throughout the meal, it was the Tubig Ni Maria (Php230 per pitcher) that accompanied us to quench our thirst and cleanse our palates.  Having cucumber juice, ginger syrup, and cirrus water combined, it was expectedly refreshing. Though personally, I deem that it could be better to throw in some honey to it for a sweeter juice-like flair to it.  

Truth be told, Pia Y Damaso is more than just the controversy to its name, the same way that it is more than just the enticing desserts they are known for.  They also take pride in serving Filipino dishes inspired by the food mentioned in the novel which are considered to be enjoyed by Jose Rizal himself, people from the distant past, including the subversives during the colonial period in our country.

Just like in all the matters concerning food, the tag line Subversive Filipino Cuisine can be subjective.  Personally, I see dishes at Pia Y Damaso as Subversive Filipino Cuisine in the light that it does not boxed each dishes into the usual way it is perceived or accepted by many.  Rather, it goes beyond that. From the quirky names to the way ingredients are incorporated, each dishes are inspired by something from way back history only to be translated into something worth celebrating for at the present time.

Restaurante Pia Y Damaso

2/F Greenbelt 5, Legaspi St., Ayala Center
Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines
Contact No.: (02) 729-5511
Facebook page: www.facebook.com/PiaYDamaso